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Feeding a crowd

Six people and up, without losing the day.

Charcoal Smash BurgersBurgers

Charcoal Smash Burgers

A smash burger is a crust delivery system. That needs a flat, screaming hot surface, which means a griddle or cast iron pan set directly over the coals rather than the bare grate.

10 min · serves 4
Brisket on a Charcoal Grill Using the Snake MethodBrisket

Brisket on a Charcoal Grill Using the Snake Method

You do not need a dedicated smoker. A 22 inch kettle and a snake of unlit briquettes will hold 120°C (250°F) for ten hours, which is all a brisket has ever asked for.

10 to 14 hr · serves 8 to 10
Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over CoalsSteak

Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over Coals

California's contribution to live-fire cooking: a whole tri-tip, salt pepper and garlic, cooked over red oak and sliced across two different grains.

35 min · serves 4 to 6
Smoked Beef Short RibsShort rib

Smoked Beef Short Ribs

Brisket flavour on a bone, and considerably harder to ruin. Plate short ribs are the single most impressive thing you can put on a charcoal cooker.

7 to 9 hr · serves 4
Picanha Skewers Over CharcoalSteak

Picanha Skewers Over Charcoal

The Brazilian churrasco cut, bent into a C on a skewer so the fat cap faces out and bastes the meat as it renders.

20 min · serves 4
Baby Back Ribs on a Charcoal KettleRibs

Baby Back Ribs on a Charcoal Kettle

The cook that teaches you fire management, because five hours at 135°C (275°F) on a kettle is entirely achievable and entirely on you.

5 hr · serves 4
Charcoal Smoked Pulled Pork ShoulderShoulder

Charcoal Smoked Pulled Pork Shoulder

The most forgiving long cook in barbecue. A pork shoulder has so much fat and connective tissue that it tolerates almost every mistake you can make, which is why it should be your first project cook.

10 to 12 hr · serves 10 to 12
Rotisserie Porchetta Over CharcoalPork belly

Rotisserie Porchetta Over Charcoal

Rolled pork belly around loin, turning slowly over coals for three hours. The rotation is what makes the skin crackle evenly the whole way round, which an oven cannot manage.

3 hr · serves 8
Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal GrillWhole bird

Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal Grill

Removing the backbone and flattening the bird solves the fundamental problem with roast chicken: breast and thigh want different temperatures, and a flat bird lets you give them both.

50 min · serves 4
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalThighs and legs

Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over Charcoal

Chicken thigh is the cut charcoal was made for: enough fat to survive a live fire, and skin that goes properly crisp over coals in a way an oven never manages.

25 min · serves 4
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodWhole bird

Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento Wood

Real jerk is a smoking technique, not a sauce. The marinade matters, but what makes it jerk is slow smoke over pimento wood.

1 hr 15 min · serves 6
Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over CharcoalLeg

Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over Charcoal

Boned and opened flat, a leg of lamb goes from a three hour roast to a forty five minute grill, with far more surface for char and a built-in range of doneness for people who disagree about it.

45 min · serves 8
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalVegetables

Charred Cabbage Wedges Over Charcoal

Cabbage has enough density and sugar to take real fire, and it is probably the best value ingredient you can put on a charcoal grill.

40 min · serves 4
Charcoal Grilled Corn, Elote StyleVegetables

Charcoal Grilled Corn, Elote Style

Corn over charcoal, then rolled in mayonnaise, cheese, chilli and lime. The char is not decoration, it is a flavour the vegetable cannot produce any other way.

12 min · serves 6
Cypriot Souvla on the FoukouShoulder

Cypriot Souvla on the Foukou

The Sunday cook of every Cypriot village. Big chunks of pork shoulder turning slowly over charcoal for two and a half hours, seasoned with almost nothing.

2 hr 30 min · serves 8
Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat SausagesSausages

Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages

Minced pork and lamb wrapped in caul fat, which melts as it cooks and bastes the meat from the outside in. There is nothing else quite like them.

20 min · serves 4
Greek Pork SouvlakiSkewers

Greek Pork Souvlaki

Small cubes of pork, a short marinade of oil, lemon and oregano, and a fierce fire. Souvlaki is about the char on the edges, so keep the pieces small and the heat high.

12 min · serves 4
Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal SpitThighs and legs

Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal Spit

Stacked marinated thighs turning slowly over charcoal, shaved off in layers as the outside crisps. A foukou or a rotisserie ring turns this from a restaurant dish into a garden one.

1 hr 30 min · serves 6
Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb SkewersSkewers

Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb Skewers

Hand-minced lamb with tail fat and red pepper, moulded onto wide flat skewers. The fat content is not negotiable and it is why this tastes like nothing you can buy.

10 min · serves 4
Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short RibsShort rib

Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short Ribs

Short ribs cut thin across the bone so they cook in minutes. The marinade uses pear, which genuinely tenderises rather than just flavouring.

8 min · serves 4
Boerewors on the BraaiSausages

Boerewors on the Braai

A single continuous coil of coarse beef sausage spiced with coriander and clove. The rules are simple: never prick it, never rush it, and never cut the coil.

20 min · serves 6
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorThighs and legs

Tandoori Chicken Without a Tandoor

Two marinades, not one. The first is salt, lemon and chilli cutting into scored meat; the second is yoghurt and spice clinging to the surface. That order is the whole technique.

35 min · serves 4
Cuban Lechon AsadoShoulder

Cuban Lechon Asado

Pork shoulder marinated in mojo, which is sour orange, a great deal of garlic and oregano. Citrus and pork over charcoal, and very little else.

8 hr · serves 10
Filipino Chicken InasalThighs and legs

Filipino Chicken Inasal

Chicken marinated in calamansi, vinegar, lemongrass and ginger, then basted constantly with annatto oil that turns it a deep orange. Sharp, savoury and completely distinct from western barbecue.

30 min · serves 4
Asado de Tira Over EmbersShort rib

Asado de Tira Over Embers

Argentinian cross-cut short ribs cooked slowly over embers rather than flame, seasoned with nothing but coarse salt. Patience is the entire recipe.

50 min · serves 4
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsThighs and legs

Crispy Charcoal Chicken Wings

The secret to crisp charcoal wings is not a hotter fire, it is baking powder and a patient two zone cook. Skin like glass, no deep fryer.

40 min · serves 4
Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)Whole bird

Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)

Beer can chicken does not work, for reasons of basic physics. Here is the whole roast chicken it is trying to be, cooked upright on a proper roasting stand.

1 hr 10 min · serves 4
Grilled Lamb KoftasSkewers

Grilled Lamb Koftas

Spiced minced lamb moulded onto skewers, the Middle Eastern cousin of the Turkish kebab. The trick is kneading the mince until it is tacky so it grips the skewer.

12 min · serves 4
Carne Asada, Mexican Grilled SteakSteak

Carne Asada, Mexican Grilled Steak

Mexico's great grilled beef: thin steak marinated in lime, orange, garlic and chilli, seared hard and chopped for tacos. Bright, smoky and fast.

8 min · serves 6
Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue PorkShoulder

Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue Pork

The glossy red barbecue pork that hangs in Cantonese windows. Pork shoulder strips lacquered in a sweet, savoury glaze and cooked until the edges char.

1 hr · serves 6
Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken SkewersSkewers

Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken Skewers

Yoghurt-and-garlic marinated chicken skewers from across the Levant, tangy and tender, served with toum, the fierce garlic sauce that defines them.

12 min · serves 4
Grilled Pineapple with Rum and LimeVegetables

Grilled Pineapple with Rum and Lime

Fire does something remarkable to pineapple: the sugars caramelise and the fruit turns almost savoury. A pudding that cooks on the dying coals.

10 min · serves 6
Smoked Turkey CrownWhole bird

Smoked Turkey Crown

The best thing that can happen to a turkey is a charcoal fire and a brine. Smoked over apple wood, the meat stays juicy and the skin turns mahogany, and your oven stays free.

3 hr · serves 8
Charcoal Grilled FlatbreadVegetables

Charcoal Grilled Flatbread

A live fire is the best oven a flatbread will ever meet. Two minutes over the coals and it puffs, blisters and takes on a smoke you cannot fake indoors.

12 min · serves 6
Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic ButterShellfish

Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic Butter

Lobster sounds intimidating and is genuinely easy over coals. Split the tails, baste with garlic butter, and cook flesh side down then up. Ten minutes, no boiling pot.

10 min · serves 4
Al Pastor Pork SkewersShoulder

Al Pastor Pork Skewers

Mexico by way of Lebanon: spit-grilled pork marinated in dried chillies, achiote and pineapple, the Middle Eastern shawarma technique that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico City.

20 min · serves 6
Charred Corn RibsVegetables

Charred Corn Ribs

Quartered corn cobs curl into rib shapes as they grill, char at the edges and eat off the cob like a rib. The most fun you can have with sweetcorn.

10 min · serves 4
Smoked Beef CheeksShort rib

Smoked Beef Cheeks

The hardest-working muscle on the animal becomes the most tender thing on the plate. Beef cheeks are pure collagen, and low slow smoke turns them to silk.

6 hr · serves 4

Cooking for a crowd over charcoal is a logistics problem more than a cooking one. The answer is almost always one large cut cooked slowly and then shredded or carved, rather than thirty individual portions cooked to order while everyone stands and waits.

Pork shoulder, butterflied leg of lamb and beef short ribs all scale with no additional work. A brisket feeds ten. Anything requiring you to turn each portion by hand does not scale at all.

Cook the large thing first and let it rest, which large cuts need anyway, then use the dying fire for vegetables and flatbreads while people are already eating.

At a glance

RecipeMethodGrill tempCook timePull at
Charcoal Smash BurgersDirect heat290°C (550°F) and above10 min70°C (160°F)
Brisket on a Charcoal Grill Using the Snake MethodLow and slow smoking105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F)10 to 14 hr95°C (203°F)
Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over CoalsTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)35 min55°C (130°F)
Smoked Beef Short RibsLow and slow smoking105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F)7 to 9 hr95°C (203°F)
Picanha Skewers Over CharcoalDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)20 min55°C (130°F)
Baby Back Ribs on a Charcoal KettleLow and slow smoking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)5 hr90°C (198°F)
Charcoal Smoked Pulled Pork ShoulderLow and slow smoking105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F)10 to 12 hr95°C (203°F)
Rotisserie Porchetta Over CharcoalRotisserie135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)3 hr65°C (145°F)
Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal GrillTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)50 min75°C (165°F)
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)25 min80°C (175°F)
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 15 min80°C (175°F)
Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)45 min55°C (130°F)
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 minTender
Charcoal Grilled Corn, Elote StyleDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 minCharred
Cypriot Souvla on the FoukouRotisserie135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)2 hr 30 min85°C (185°F)
Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat SausagesDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)20 min75°C (165°F)
Greek Pork SouvlakiDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 min65°C (145°F)
Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal SpitRotisserie135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 30 min80°C (175°F)
Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 min70°C (160°F)
Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short RibsDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)8 minCooked through
Boerewors on the BraaiTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)20 min70°C (160°F)
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)35 min80°C (175°F)
Cuban Lechon AsadoLow and slow smoking105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F)8 hr95°C (203°F)
Filipino Chicken InasalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)30 min80°C (175°F)
Asado de Tira Over EmbersDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)50 minCooked through
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 min85°C (185°F)
Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)Two-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 10 min75°C (165°F)
Grilled Lamb KoftasDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 min70°C (160°F)
Carne Asada, Mexican Grilled SteakDirect heat290°C (550°F) and above8 min55°C (130°F)
Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue PorkTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr70°C (160°F)
Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 min75°C (165°F)
Grilled Pineapple with Rum and LimeDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)10 minCaramelised
Smoked Turkey CrownLow and slow smoking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)3 hr70°C (160°F)
Charcoal Grilled FlatbreadDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 minPuffed and charred
Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic ButterDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 min60°C (140°F)
Al Pastor Pork SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)20 min70°C (160°F)
Charred Corn RibsDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 minCurled
Smoked Beef CheeksLow and slow smoking105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F)6 hr95°C (205°F)

Techniques used

Direct heat. Food straight over the coals. Fast, fierce, and finished before the inside overcooks. Rotisserie. Constant rotation, constant self-basting, no hot side to fight. Low and slow smoking. Hours at 105°C (225°F) to 150°C (300°F) with wood on the coals. Collagen melts, bark forms. Two-zone cooking. Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.

Cookers these suit

Asado grills. Bullet smokers. Drum smokers. Foukou rotisseries. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Korean table grills. Offset smokers. Portable grills. Tandoor ovens.