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Small plates

Grazing food off a live fire.

Reverse Seared Ribeye on a Charcoal GrillSteak

Reverse Seared Ribeye on a Charcoal Grill

The technique that makes a thick steak behave. Gentle indirect heat first, a savage sear last, and the grey band disappears.

45 min · serves 2
Pork Belly Burnt EndsPork belly

Pork Belly Burnt Ends

Cubes of pork belly smoked until the fat renders, then braised in butter and sugar until they glaze. Barbecue's answer to a confection.

4 hr · serves 6
Yakitori Over BinchotanSkewers

Yakitori Over Binchotan

Small skewers, a narrow bed of coals and no lid. Yakitori is charcoal cooking reduced to its essentials, which is exactly why the fuel matters so much.

15 min · serves 4
Charcoal Grilled OctopusShellfish

Charcoal Grilled Octopus

Octopus needs two entirely different cooking processes: a long gentle simmer to tenderise, then a violent short char. Skip either and you get rubber.

1 hr 15 min · serves 4
Garlic Charcoal Prawn SkewersShellfish

Garlic Charcoal Prawn Skewers

Prawns take about four minutes and are ruined by five. Shell on, skewered flat, over a hot bed, and off before you think.

6 min · serves 4
Lamb Chops Straight Over the CoalsChops

Lamb Chops Straight Over the Coals

Fat, bone and a fierce fire. Lamb chops are one of the few things that genuinely benefit from the flare-ups everyone else spends their time avoiding.

8 min · serves 4
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalVegetables

Charred Cabbage Wedges Over Charcoal

Cabbage has enough density and sugar to take real fire, and it is probably the best value ingredient you can put on a charcoal grill.

40 min · serves 4
Ember Roasted Peppers with RomescoVegetables

Ember Roasted Peppers with Romesco

No grate, no pan. Peppers go straight onto the burning coals, which sounds like vandalism and is actually the oldest cooking technique there is.

20 min · serves 4
Ember Baked Aubergine Baba GanoushVegetables

Ember Baked Aubergine Baba Ganoush

The smoke is the dish. Baba ganoush made in an oven is a different, lesser thing, because aubergine flesh absorbs smoke better than almost any other ingredient.

25 min · serves 4
Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat SausagesSausages

Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages

Minced pork and lamb wrapped in caul fat, which melts as it cooks and bastes the meat from the outside in. There is nothing else quite like them.

20 min · serves 4
Grilled Halloumi, ProperlyCheese

Grilled Halloumi, Properly

Halloumi is squeaky and dull when it is done badly and genuinely excellent when it is done properly. The difference is thickness and heat.

6 min · serves 4
Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb SkewersSkewers

Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb Skewers

Hand-minced lamb with tail fat and red pepper, moulded onto wide flat skewers. The fat content is not negotiable and it is why this tastes like nothing you can buy.

10 min · serves 4
Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short RibsShort rib

Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short Ribs

Short ribs cut thin across the bone so they cook in minutes. The marinade uses pear, which genuinely tenderises rather than just flavouring.

8 min · serves 4
Grilled Skirt Steak with ChimichurriSteak

Grilled Skirt Steak with Chimichurri

Skirt is the most flavourful cheap steak there is, and it wants one thing: a screaming fire and about two minutes a side.

8 min · serves 4
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsThighs and legs

Crispy Charcoal Chicken Wings

The secret to crisp charcoal wings is not a hotter fire, it is baking powder and a patient two zone cook. Skin like glass, no deep fryer.

40 min · serves 4
Grilled Lamb KoftasSkewers

Grilled Lamb Koftas

Spiced minced lamb moulded onto skewers, the Middle Eastern cousin of the Turkish kebab. The trick is kneading the mince until it is tacky so it grips the skewer.

12 min · serves 4
Seared Tuna Steak on CharcoalFillets

Seared Tuna Steak on Charcoal

Tuna is a steak that happens to come from the sea. Treat it like one: a fierce fire, ninety seconds a side, and a raw ruby centre.

3 min · serves 2
Charred Cauliflower SteaksVegetables

Charred Cauliflower Steaks

Cut a cauliflower into thick slabs and it grills like a steak, going nutty and sweet where the florets catch. The most convincing vegetable main there is.

30 min · serves 4
Charcoal Grilled SardinesWhole fish

Charcoal Grilled Sardines

The cheapest, most Mediterranean thing you can put over coals. Whole sardines, salt, fierce heat and lemon, eaten with your fingers.

6 min · serves 4
Halloumi and Vegetable SkewersCheese

Halloumi and Vegetable Skewers

Halloumi is the one cheese that holds its shape on a skewer, threaded between peppers and courgette and charred until it squeaks and softens.

10 min · serves 4
Grilled Pineapple with Rum and LimeVegetables

Grilled Pineapple with Rum and Lime

Fire does something remarkable to pineapple: the sugars caramelise and the fruit turns almost savoury. A pudding that cooks on the dying coals.

10 min · serves 6
Grilled Garlic Prawns, Gambas StyleShellfish

Grilled Garlic Prawns, Gambas Style

The Spanish tapas classic taken outside: prawns cooked in garlic, chilli and olive oil on a plancha over the coals, the oil catching the smoke.

6 min · serves 4
Charcoal Grilled FlatbreadVegetables

Charcoal Grilled Flatbread

A live fire is the best oven a flatbread will ever meet. Two minutes over the coals and it puffs, blisters and takes on a smoke you cannot fake indoors.

12 min · serves 6
Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic ButterShellfish

Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic Butter

Lobster sounds intimidating and is genuinely easy over coals. Split the tails, baste with garlic butter, and cook flesh side down then up. Ten minutes, no boiling pot.

10 min · serves 4
Grilled Portobello MushroomsVegetables

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms

A big flat mushroom is the closest a vegetable comes to a steak: meaty, juicy and deeply savoury when it takes on smoke. Marinate, grill gill side up, and let it fill with its own juices.

15 min · serves 4
Grilled Chorizo with PeppersSausages

Grilled Chorizo with Peppers

Cooking chorizo releases its smoky paprika oil, and over charcoal that oil crisps the skin and coats whatever it touches. Grill it with peppers and mop it up with bread.

15 min · serves 4
Grilled AsparagusVegetables

Grilled Asparagus

Asparagus over coals is one of the quickest, best things you can do with the fire while it is hot. A little oil, a fierce heat, and lemon and parmesan at the end.

6 min · serves 4
Provoleta, Argentinian Grilled CheeseCheese

Provoleta, Argentinian Grilled Cheese

A thick disc of provolone grilled in a pan until the outside crusts and the inside goes molten, scattered with oregano and chilli. The way an asado begins in Argentina.

8 min · serves 4
Charred Corn RibsVegetables

Charred Corn Ribs

Quartered corn cobs curl into rib shapes as they grill, char at the edges and eat off the cob like a rib. The most fun you can have with sweetcorn.

10 min · serves 4

Some of the best charcoal cooking is not a main course at all. Small plates suit live fire because they cook in minutes, they come off the grill in waves, and people eat them standing up while the next thing goes on.

This is also the honest use for a dying fire. A bed of coals that is past its searing best is exactly right for peppers, aubergines, flatbreads and anything that wants ember heat rather than a roaring grate.

Serve them with something sharp. Almost everything cooked over charcoal is rich and smoky, and lemon, vinegar or pickles are what stop a table of it becoming heavy.

At a glance

RecipeMethodGrill tempCook timePull at
Reverse Seared Ribeye on a Charcoal GrillReverse sear290°C (550°F) and above45 min55°C (130°F)
Pork Belly Burnt EndsLow and slow smoking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)4 hr95°C (203°F)
Yakitori Over BinchotanDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)15 min75°C (165°F)
Charcoal Grilled OctopusDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)1 hr 15 minTender
Garlic Charcoal Prawn SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)6 min50°C (120°F)
Lamb Chops Straight Over the CoalsDirect heat290°C (550°F) and above8 min55°C (130°F)
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 minTender
Ember Roasted Peppers with RomescoCooking in the embers290°C (550°F) and above20 minCollapsed
Ember Baked Aubergine Baba GanoushCooking in the embers290°C (550°F) and above25 min95°C (205°F)
Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat SausagesDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)20 min75°C (165°F)
Grilled Halloumi, ProperlyDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)6 minCharred
Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 min70°C (160°F)
Korean Galbi, LA-Cut Short RibsDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)8 minCooked through
Grilled Skirt Steak with ChimichurriDirect heat290°C (550°F) and above8 min55°C (130°F)
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 min85°C (185°F)
Grilled Lamb KoftasDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 min70°C (160°F)
Seared Tuna Steak on CharcoalDirect heat290°C (550°F) and above3 min45°C (110°F)
Charred Cauliflower SteaksTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)30 minTender
Charcoal Grilled SardinesDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)6 minOpaque
Halloumi and Vegetable SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 minCharred
Grilled Pineapple with Rum and LimeDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)10 minCaramelised
Grilled Garlic Prawns, Gambas StyleDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)6 min50°C (120°F)
Charcoal Grilled FlatbreadDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 minPuffed and charred
Grilled Lobster Tails with Garlic ButterDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 min60°C (140°F)
Grilled Portobello MushroomsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)15 minTender
Grilled Chorizo with PeppersDirect heat175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)15 min70°C (160°F)
Grilled AsparagusDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)6 minTender-crisp
Provoleta, Argentinian Grilled CheeseDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)8 minMolten
Charred Corn RibsDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)10 minCurled

Techniques used

Direct heat. Food straight over the coals. Fast, fierce, and finished before the inside overcooks. Cooking in the embers. Food laid directly on the coals. No grate, no barrier, maximum char. Reverse sear. Bring it up slowly on the cool side, then sear hard at the end. Edge to edge pink with a hard crust. Low and slow smoking. Hours at 105°C (225°F) to 150°C (300°F) with wood on the coals. Collagen melts, bark forms. Two-zone cooking. Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.

Cookers these suit

Asado grills. Bullet smokers. Drum smokers. Foukou rotisseries. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Korean table grills. Portable grills.