Husk the corn and grill directly over a hot bed for 10 to 12 minutes, turning often, until charred in patches all over. Brush with a mayonnaise and crema mixture, roll in crumbled cotija, dust with chilli and lime.
Method
Husk it, do not soak it
Pull the husks and silk off completely. Soaking corn in water and grilling it in the husk steams it, which is a fine way to cook corn and the opposite of what this dish needs. You want direct contact with the fire.
Hot bed, no lid
Spread a full chimney into an even hot bed. Corn is sugary and chars fast, and you want that char to happen before the kernels go soft and shrivelled.
Turn often for 10 to 12 minutes
Straight on the grate, turning every couple of minutes. You are looking for blackened, blistered patches over most of the surface, with plenty of yellow still showing between them. Some kernels will pop, which is normal.
Mix the dressing while it cooks
Combine the mayonnaise and crema. Have the cheese, chilli, lime and coriander laid out in separate plates or trays wide enough to roll a cob in.
Dress the corn hot
Straight off the fire, brush each cob all over with the mayonnaise mixture while it is hot enough to melt slightly into the kernels, then roll it in the cotija so it sticks.
Finish and serve
Dust with chilli powder, squeeze lime over generously, scatter coriander. Serve immediately with the spent lime halves on the side.
Notes worth knowing
- Cotija is dry and salty and does not melt, which is why it is the right cheese here. Feta crumbled fine is the closest easy substitute.
- For a version off the cob, cut the charred kernels off and stir everything through in a bowl. Same dish, easier to eat standing up.
- Corn is at its best within a day of picking. Older corn converts its sugar to starch and no amount of fire will fix that.
Common questions
Should I grill corn in the husk?
Only if you want steamed corn with a hint of smoke, which is a different and perfectly good dish. For elote you need the kernels in direct contact with the fire, so the husk has to come off.
Do I need to boil the corn first?
No. Fresh corn cooks through in the ten to twelve minutes it takes to char, and pre-boiling makes it waterlogged so it will not take colour.
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