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Two-zone cooking

Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.

Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over CoalsSteak

Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over Coals

California's contribution to live-fire cooking: a whole tri-tip, salt pepper and garlic, cooked over red oak and sliced across two different grains.

35 min · serves 4 to 6
Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal GrillWhole bird

Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal Grill

Removing the backbone and flattening the bird solves the fundamental problem with roast chicken: breast and thigh want different temperatures, and a flat bird lets you give them both.

50 min · serves 4
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalThighs and legs

Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over Charcoal

Chicken thigh is the cut charcoal was made for: enough fat to survive a live fire, and skin that goes properly crisp over coals in a way an oven never manages.

25 min · serves 4
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodWhole bird

Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento Wood

Real jerk is a smoking technique, not a sauce. The marinade matters, but what makes it jerk is slow smoke over pimento wood.

1 hr 15 min · serves 6
Charcoal Grilled Salmon FilletsFillets

Charcoal Grilled Salmon Fillets

Salmon is fatty enough to survive a charcoal fire and delicate enough to be destroyed by it. The answer is skin-side down over moderate heat, and pulling it earlier than feels right.

12 min · serves 4
Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over CharcoalLeg

Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over Charcoal

Boned and opened flat, a leg of lamb goes from a three hour roast to a forty five minute grill, with far more surface for char and a built-in range of doneness for people who disagree about it.

45 min · serves 8
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalVegetables

Charred Cabbage Wedges Over Charcoal

Cabbage has enough density and sugar to take real fire, and it is probably the best value ingredient you can put on a charcoal grill.

40 min · serves 4
Boerewors on the BraaiSausages

Boerewors on the Braai

A single continuous coil of coarse beef sausage spiced with coriander and clove. The rules are simple: never prick it, never rush it, and never cut the coil.

20 min · serves 6
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorThighs and legs

Tandoori Chicken Without a Tandoor

Two marinades, not one. The first is salt, lemon and chilli cutting into scored meat; the second is yoghurt and spice clinging to the surface. That order is the whole technique.

35 min · serves 4
Filipino Chicken InasalThighs and legs

Filipino Chicken Inasal

Chicken marinated in calamansi, vinegar, lemongrass and ginger, then basted constantly with annatto oil that turns it a deep orange. Sharp, savoury and completely distinct from western barbecue.

30 min · serves 4
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsThighs and legs

Crispy Charcoal Chicken Wings

The secret to crisp charcoal wings is not a hotter fire, it is baking powder and a patient two zone cook. Skin like glass, no deep fryer.

40 min · serves 4
Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)Whole bird

Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)

Beer can chicken does not work, for reasons of basic physics. Here is the whole roast chicken it is trying to be, cooked upright on a proper roasting stand.

1 hr 10 min · serves 4
Charred Cauliflower SteaksVegetables

Charred Cauliflower Steaks

Cut a cauliflower into thick slabs and it grills like a steak, going nutty and sweet where the florets catch. The most convincing vegetable main there is.

30 min · serves 4
Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue PorkShoulder

Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue Pork

The glossy red barbecue pork that hangs in Cantonese windows. Pork shoulder strips lacquered in a sweet, savoury glaze and cooked until the edges char.

1 hr · serves 6
Grilled Portobello MushroomsVegetables

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms

A big flat mushroom is the closest a vegetable comes to a steak: meaty, juicy and deeply savoury when it takes on smoke. Marinate, grill gill side up, and let it fill with its own juices.

15 min · serves 4

The two-zone fire is the single most useful technique in charcoal cooking. Bank all your lit coals against one half of the grill and leave the other half empty, and you have a searing zone at 230°C (450°F) to 345°C (650°F) and a gentle roasting zone at 135°C (275°F) to 190°C (375°F) in the same cooker.

What it really buys you is somewhere to retreat to. Flare-up, move the food. Skin colouring too fast, move the food. It converts charcoal cooking from a race into something you can actually control.

At a glance

RecipeMethodGrill tempCook timePull at
Santa Maria Tri-Tip Over CoalsTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)35 min55°C (130°F)
Spatchcock Chicken on a Charcoal GrillTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)50 min75°C (165°F)
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)25 min80°C (175°F)
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 15 min80°C (175°F)
Charcoal Grilled Salmon FilletsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)12 min50°C (125°F)
Butterflied Leg of Lamb Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)45 min55°C (130°F)
Charred Cabbage Wedges Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 minTender
Boerewors on the BraaiTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)20 min70°C (160°F)
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)35 min80°C (175°F)
Filipino Chicken InasalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)30 min80°C (175°F)
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 min85°C (185°F)
Whole Roast Chicken on Charcoal (Better Than Beer Can)Two-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 10 min75°C (165°F)
Charred Cauliflower SteaksTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)30 minTender
Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue PorkTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr70°C (160°F)
Grilled Portobello MushroomsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)15 minTender

Techniques used

Two-zone cooking. Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.

Cookers these suit

Asado grills. Drum smokers. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Portable grills. Tandoor ovens.