ShoulderCypriot Souvla on the Foukou
The Sunday cook of every Cypriot village. Big chunks of pork shoulder turning slowly over charcoal for two and a half hours, seasoned with almost nothing.
SausagesSheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages
Minced pork and lamb wrapped in caul fat, which melts as it cooks and bastes the meat from the outside in. There is nothing else quite like them.
CheeseGrilled Halloumi, Properly
Halloumi is squeaky and dull when it is done badly and genuinely excellent when it is done properly. The difference is thickness and heat.
SkewersGreek Pork Souvlaki
Small cubes of pork, a short marinade of oil, lemon and oregano, and a fierce fire. Souvlaki is about the char on the edges, so keep the pieces small and the heat high.
Thighs and legsChicken Gyros on a Charcoal Spit
Stacked marinated thighs turning slowly over charcoal, shaved off in layers as the outside crisps. A foukou or a rotisserie ring turns this from a restaurant dish into a garden one.
SkewersAdana Kebab, Turkish Lamb Skewers
Hand-minced lamb with tail fat and red pepper, moulded onto wide flat skewers. The fat content is not negotiable and it is why this tastes like nothing you can buy.
SkewersGrilled Lamb Koftas
Spiced minced lamb moulded onto skewers, the Middle Eastern cousin of the Turkish kebab. The trick is kneading the mince until it is tacky so it grips the skewer.
Whole fishCharcoal Grilled Sardines
The cheapest, most Mediterranean thing you can put over coals. Whole sardines, salt, fierce heat and lemon, eaten with your fingers.
CheeseHalloumi and Vegetable Skewers
Halloumi is the one cheese that holds its shape on a skewer, threaded between peppers and courgette and charred until it squeaks and softens.
SkewersShish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken Skewers
Yoghurt-and-garlic marinated chicken skewers from across the Levant, tangy and tender, served with toum, the fierce garlic sauce that defines them.
VegetablesCharcoal Grilled Flatbread
A live fire is the best oven a flatbread will ever meet. Two minutes over the coals and it puffs, blisters and takes on a smoke you cannot fake indoors.
Whole fishWhole Grilled Mackerel
Mackerel is oily, cheap and sustainable, and its richness stands up to fierce heat and sharp flavours better than almost any other fish. Score it, grill it, hit it with something acidic.
ShoulderAl Pastor Pork Skewers
Mexico by way of Lebanon: spit-grilled pork marinated in dried chillies, achiote and pineapple, the Middle Eastern shawarma technique that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico City.
At a glance
| Recipe | Method | Grill temp | Cook time | Pull at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cypriot Souvla on the Foukou | Rotisserie | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 2 hr 30 min | 85°C (185°F) |
| Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages | Direct heat | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 20 min | 75°C (165°F) |
| Grilled Halloumi, Properly | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 6 min | Charred |
| Greek Pork Souvlaki | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 12 min | 65°C (145°F) |
| Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal Spit | Rotisserie | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 1 hr 30 min | 80°C (175°F) |
| Adana Kebab, Turkish Lamb Skewers | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 10 min | 70°C (160°F) |
| Grilled Lamb Koftas | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 12 min | 70°C (160°F) |
| Charcoal Grilled Sardines | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 6 min | Opaque |
| Halloumi and Vegetable Skewers | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 10 min | Charred |
| Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken Skewers | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 12 min | 75°C (165°F) |
| Charcoal Grilled Flatbread | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 12 min | Puffed and charred |
| Whole Grilled Mackerel | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 10 min | Opaque |
| Al Pastor Pork Skewers | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 20 min | 70°C (160°F) |
Techniques used
Direct heat. Food straight over the coals. Fast, fierce, and finished before the inside overcooks. Rotisserie. Constant rotation, constant self-basting, no hot side to fight.
Cookers these suit
Foukou rotisseries. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Korean table grills. Portable grills.