RibsBaby Back Ribs on a Charcoal Kettle
The cook that teaches you fire management, because five hours at 135°C (275°F) on a kettle is entirely achievable and entirely on you.
ShoulderCharcoal Smoked Pulled Pork Shoulder
The most forgiving long cook in barbecue. A pork shoulder has so much fat and connective tissue that it tolerates almost every mistake you can make, which is why it should be your first project cook.
Pork bellyPork Belly Burnt Ends
Cubes of pork belly smoked until the fat renders, then braised in butter and sugar until they glaze. Barbecue's answer to a confection.
ChopsThick Brined Pork Chops Over Charcoal
Modern pork is lean enough that the margin between juicy and sawdust is about eight degrees. A brine widens that margin, and a thermometer closes the argument.
Pork bellyRotisserie Porchetta Over Charcoal
Rolled pork belly around loin, turning slowly over coals for three hours. The rotation is what makes the skin crackle evenly the whole way round, which an oven cannot manage.
ShoulderCypriot Souvla on the Foukou
The Sunday cook of every Cypriot village. Big chunks of pork shoulder turning slowly over charcoal for two and a half hours, seasoned with almost nothing.
SausagesSheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages
Minced pork and lamb wrapped in caul fat, which melts as it cooks and bastes the meat from the outside in. There is nothing else quite like them.
SkewersGreek Pork Souvlaki
Small cubes of pork, a short marinade of oil, lemon and oregano, and a fierce fire. Souvlaki is about the char on the edges, so keep the pieces small and the heat high.
SausagesBoerewors on the Braai
A single continuous coil of coarse beef sausage spiced with coriander and clove. The rules are simple: never prick it, never rush it, and never cut the coil.
ShoulderCuban Lechon Asado
Pork shoulder marinated in mojo, which is sour orange, a great deal of garlic and oregano. Citrus and pork over charcoal, and very little else.
ChopsGrilled Pork Tenderloin
The leanest cut on the pig, which means it is easy to ruin and quick to cook well. A two zone fire and a thermometer are all it asks for.
ShoulderChar Siu, Chinese Barbecue Pork
The glossy red barbecue pork that hangs in Cantonese windows. Pork shoulder strips lacquered in a sweet, savoury glaze and cooked until the edges char.
SausagesGrilled Chorizo with Peppers
Cooking chorizo releases its smoky paprika oil, and over charcoal that oil crisps the skin and coats whatever it touches. Grill it with peppers and mop it up with bread.
ShoulderAl Pastor Pork Skewers
Mexico by way of Lebanon: spit-grilled pork marinated in dried chillies, achiote and pineapple, the Middle Eastern shawarma technique that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico City.
At a glance
| Recipe | Method | Grill temp | Cook time | Pull at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baby Back Ribs on a Charcoal Kettle | Low and slow smoking | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 5 hr | 90°C (198°F) |
| Charcoal Smoked Pulled Pork Shoulder | Low and slow smoking | 105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F) | 10 to 12 hr | 95°C (203°F) |
| Pork Belly Burnt Ends | Low and slow smoking | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 4 hr | 95°C (203°F) |
| Thick Brined Pork Chops Over Charcoal | Reverse sear | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 30 min | 65°C (145°F) |
| Rotisserie Porchetta Over Charcoal | Rotisserie | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 3 hr | 65°C (145°F) |
| Cypriot Souvla on the Foukou | Rotisserie | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 2 hr 30 min | 85°C (185°F) |
| Sheftalia, Cypriot Caul Fat Sausages | Direct heat | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 20 min | 75°C (165°F) |
| Greek Pork Souvlaki | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 12 min | 65°C (145°F) |
| Boerewors on the Braai | Two-zone cooking | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 20 min | 70°C (160°F) |
| Cuban Lechon Asado | Low and slow smoking | 105 to 135°C (225 to 275°F) | 8 hr | 95°C (203°F) |
| Grilled Pork Tenderloin | Reverse sear | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 25 min | 65°C (145°F) |
| Char Siu, Chinese Barbecue Pork | Two-zone cooking | 135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F) | 1 hr | 70°C (160°F) |
| Grilled Chorizo with Peppers | Direct heat | 175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F) | 15 min | 70°C (160°F) |
| Al Pastor Pork Skewers | Direct heat | 230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F) | 20 min | 70°C (160°F) |
Techniques used
Direct heat. Food straight over the coals. Fast, fierce, and finished before the inside overcooks. Reverse sear. Bring it up slowly on the cool side, then sear hard at the end. Edge to edge pink with a hard crust. Rotisserie. Constant rotation, constant self-basting, no hot side to fight. Low and slow smoking. Hours at 105°C (225°F) to 150°C (300°F) with wood on the coals. Collagen melts, bark forms. Two-zone cooking. Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.
Cookers these suit
Asado grills. Bullet smokers. Drum smokers. Foukou rotisseries. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Portable grills.