Grilled Halloumi, Properly

Method

1. Cut it thick

   One centimetre minimum, and 1.5cm is better. Thin halloumi has no interior left by the time the outside colours, which is why it ends up squeaky and rubbery. Thick slabs go soft and creamy in the middle.

2. Dry it hard

   Halloumi is stored in brine and comes out wet. Pat every surface completely dry with kitchen paper. Wet cheese steams and sticks; dry cheese colours in two minutes.

3. Oil the cheese, not the grate

   Brush the slabs lightly with olive oil. Oil on the bars burns off before the cheese arrives. Make sure the grate is properly hot and properly clean, because halloumi will weld to anything left on it.

4. Do not move it

   Lay the slabs down over the hot coals and leave them alone for two to three minutes. They stick at first and release when the crust forms. If it resists, it is not ready.

5. Flip once and dress hot

   Two to three minutes on the second side, then straight onto a plate. Squeeze lemon over, crumble oregano between your fingers, grind pepper, and trickle honey over while the cheese is hot enough to take it. Eat immediately.

Notes worth knowing

• No salt. Halloumi is already heavily salted and adding more makes it inedible.
• It goes rubbery within a few minutes of cooling, so cook it last and serve it straight away rather than holding it warm.
• Watermelon, mint and grilled halloumi is a genuinely Cypriot combination rather than a modern invention.

Common questions

Why is my halloumi squeaky and rubbery?

Cut too thin, or cooked too long at too low a heat. Thin slabs on medium coals dry out completely before browning. Go thicker and hotter and cook it for less time.

Can I grill halloumi directly on the bars?

Yes, provided the grate is clean, hot and the cheese is dry and oiled. If you are nervous, a solid plate or plancha removes the risk entirely and gives a better all-over crust.