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Thighs and legs on Charcoal

Dark meat, the cut charcoal suits best.

Yakitori Over BinchotanSkewers

Yakitori Over Binchotan

Small skewers, a narrow bed of coals and no lid. Yakitori is charcoal cooking reduced to its essentials, which is exactly why the fuel matters so much.

15 min · serves 4
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalThighs and legs

Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over Charcoal

Chicken thigh is the cut charcoal was made for: enough fat to survive a live fire, and skin that goes properly crisp over coals in a way an oven never manages.

25 min · serves 4
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodWhole bird

Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento Wood

Real jerk is a smoking technique, not a sauce. The marinade matters, but what makes it jerk is slow smoke over pimento wood.

1 hr 15 min · serves 6
Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal SpitThighs and legs

Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal Spit

Stacked marinated thighs turning slowly over charcoal, shaved off in layers as the outside crisps. A foukou or a rotisserie ring turns this from a restaurant dish into a garden one.

1 hr 30 min · serves 6
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorThighs and legs

Tandoori Chicken Without a Tandoor

Two marinades, not one. The first is salt, lemon and chilli cutting into scored meat; the second is yoghurt and spice clinging to the surface. That order is the whole technique.

35 min · serves 4
Filipino Chicken InasalThighs and legs

Filipino Chicken Inasal

Chicken marinated in calamansi, vinegar, lemongrass and ginger, then basted constantly with annatto oil that turns it a deep orange. Sharp, savoury and completely distinct from western barbecue.

30 min · serves 4
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsThighs and legs

Crispy Charcoal Chicken Wings

The secret to crisp charcoal wings is not a hotter fire, it is baking powder and a patient two zone cook. Skin like glass, no deep fryer.

40 min · serves 4
Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken SkewersSkewers

Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken Skewers

Yoghurt-and-garlic marinated chicken skewers from across the Levant, tangy and tender, served with toum, the fierce garlic sauce that defines them.

12 min · serves 4

Thigh is the best value cut in outdoor cooking. It has enough fat to survive a live fire, skin that crisps properly over coals in a way an oven never manages, and it costs a fraction of breast.

Cook dark meat to 80°C (175°F) or higher, not 75°C (165°F). Thighs are full of connective tissue that only breaks down above about 75°C (170°F), so they get more tender and more moist as they go past the safe temperature, which is the opposite of what happens to breast.

Render skin side up over indirect heat first, then finish skin down over the coals for the last few minutes. Stay with it: chicken skin over a live fire goes from golden to black in under a minute.

At a glance

RecipeMethodGrill tempCook timePull at
Yakitori Over BinchotanDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)15 min75°C (165°F)
Peri Peri Chicken Thighs Over CharcoalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)25 min80°C (175°F)
Jerk Chicken Over Charcoal and Pimento WoodTwo-zone cooking135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 15 min80°C (175°F)
Chicken Gyros on a Charcoal SpitRotisserie135 to 175°C (275 to 350°F)1 hr 30 min80°C (175°F)
Tandoori Chicken Without a TandoorTwo-zone cooking230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)35 min80°C (175°F)
Filipino Chicken InasalTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)30 min80°C (175°F)
Crispy Charcoal Chicken WingsTwo-zone cooking175 to 230°C (350 to 450°F)40 min85°C (185°F)
Shish Taouk, Lebanese Chicken SkewersDirect heat230 to 290°C (450 to 550°F)12 min75°C (165°F)

Techniques used

Direct heat. Food straight over the coals. Fast, fierce, and finished before the inside overcooks. Rotisserie. Constant rotation, constant self-basting, no hot side to fight. Two-zone cooking. Coals banked to one side: a searing zone and a gentle zone in one grill. The single most useful technique in charcoal cooking.

Cookers these suit

Drum smokers. Foukou rotisseries. Kamado grills. Kettle grills. Portable grills. Tandoor ovens.